There's few pubs in Melbourne as well-loved as the Tote. Forget the proverbial sticky carpet, the original floor covering in the back band room has disappeared under a layer of something the colour and consistency of bitumen. The mosh area is literally a pit in this cosy corner, a sunken dance floor ensuring excellent viewing for the live bands which take the stage every night of the week except Monday.

Alternative music is the Tote's life blood. The walls are papered with posters both historic and fresh off the presses, as well as a cool array of framed photos from some of the venue's proudest moments - the Hellacopters, Chris Bailey, Kim Salmon, the Cruel Sea and loads more.

The front bar, with some of the traditional pub tiles still in place, offers a panoramic view of Johnston Street and also has one of the city's best jukeboxes, stocked with everything underground from the Velvets to Magic Dirt. A vintage Galag machine, pinball and three pool tables complete the entertainment prospects. There's a delightful, frond-shaded beer garden, too, with a big gas barby. Get onto that carpet and wiggle your toes.